Everywhere I look I see signs that the cupcake fad is finally fading. I'm glad. I've never been much of a cupcake fan. And the whole thing, the whole sugar-laden cupcake
thing, was a little over the top. My God, there were (are!) bakeries devoted entirely to the cupcake. How is it even possible to turn a profit with such a narrow confectionery niche? Obviously, it's all about marketing.
Like when some overpriced glossy kitchen catalog arrives in your mailbox declaring what is hot and what is not.
Apparently, the cupcake is no longer hot.
Do you know what
is piping hot, according to my favorite culinary store?
Pie.
That's right. Pie. And pie is something I can get excited about.
I grew up in a pie-loving household. When Thanksgiving rolled around, it was the buffet of pies, not the stand alone turkey, that was the main event. Dinner was just a pre-game warm up to the dessert table. Turkey, mashed potatoes and green beans? These were merely obligations we had to indulge in, but they were not what we came for. We came for pie.
Pumpkin, apple, pecan, strawberry rhubarb. It didn't matter. They were all good.
It wasn't until I was older, when my sister and brother brought home their significant others for Thanksgiving dinner, that I realized my family was not typical in our pie eating ways. According to the visitors at our table, our meat-to-pie ratios were faulty. After eyeing the five pound turkey for our family of seven, my brother-in-law, a college football player, wanted to know where the rest of the food was. Turned out, he wasn't all that jazzed about pie.
The secret to a good pie is not the filling, of course, but the flaky crusty goodness on the outside. There are different schools of thought as to what makes the perfect crust. Put simply, it comes down to two competing ingredients: butter and shortening. I'm a shortening, girl, myself. It is the essential piece of the pie puzzle, in my baking experience, to a perfectly flaky crust. Oh, butter has its place, but not in my pie crust.
Truth be told, whether you use butter or shortening doesn't much matter. The thing about pie is that it requires great care and nurture. It is finicky. It demands your attention. You have to read it's mood and adjust your ingredients and skill according to its changing whims. It will turn stubbornly sticky at the slightest hint of a hot, humid day. It will crack and crumble if it's worked too hard. But it will be whatever your hands tell it to be if it's heard. Ice water; added slowly, a spoonful at a time. More shortening, less flour. A pinch of salt. Crisp, morning air. It will let you know what it needs; you have to listen. If you listen, if you take your time, it will reward you with a golden brown crust, and a filling so sweet you'll swear it confesses its love to you the moment it touches your tongue.
A cupcake can't do that. Not even close.
What's on your dessert table this year?